My experience of seed growing has, so far, been largely anchored in vegetable and flower seed, but I have been increasingly motivated to explore the world of cereals and grains. According to the UK Government website, grain, or more accurately, wheat, accounts for over 30% of the average person’s daily food energy intake. Grains play a huge role in our diet.
The mechanisation and scale of modern production has meant that breeding efforts for modern cultivars of cereal and grain have largely been focused on high yields and ease of processing - all within the context of conventional chemical based farming systems. And, as with vegetable seed, current legislation restricts diversity within the grain market: ‘The current predominant seed and commodity markets focus almost exclusively upon single varieties of grain, and the commercial development of new breeding lines are determined by markets where only significant volumes are likely to be traded.’
But the demand for seed is changing, particularly in low input and organic methods of production. Modern varieties are, arguably, poorly placed to respond to our increasingly variable seasonal weather patterns. Demand is also, perhaps, being influenced by the growing awareness of the loss of nutritional integrity of more modern grains. There’s a need for more diversity within these crops and their processing methods to provide us with the nutrition that we need.
In the UK, Grain Lab are working with local networks to transform the dominant system – taking active steps towards an alternative grain economy, building community and developing the potential of diverse heterogeneous grains. There is also Wildfarmed- who work with farmers offering an end-to-end supply chain with a route to market for crops grown in systems that prioritise soil health and promote biodiversity.
But this work is being done within the constraints of the current legislation. The UK’s temporary experiment into heterogenous material demonstrated the significant contribution that diverse seed populations make towards building resilient food chains and adapting to climate change, but it is still a temporary framework. For those working with and for diversity, there is a real need for these antiquated laws of DUS to be revised permanently.
So, as well as spending time with vegetable seed producers on my travels, I have also been keeping an ear to the ground for opportunities to catch a glimpse into the world of grain here in the Pacific Northwest.
On 4th June, I made my way out to the OSU Lewis Brown Horticulture Farm in Corvallis to attend a Winter Cereals and Cover Crops Field Day, held in collaboration with the Culinary Breeding Network. The focus of the day was the autumn planted cereal trials being run by the Organic Agriculture Extension team and other researchers.
The first thing I noticed when I arrived was a beautiful field of barley, wheat and triticale plants. Knitted together in a patchwork of trial plots that extended as far as the eye could see, a cacophony of colours, shapes and textures gently swaying in the breeze – it was a feast for the eyes. It was another moment to pause and reflect on the sheer delight that can be found in diversity. It was impossible to simply walk past this field, I wanted to look closer, to wander amongst the plants and touch the seed heads. I made me imagine for a moment what a landscape of these wildly colourful plants would look like, instead of the monocultures of wheat I am so used to seeing in many areas of the UK.
To this glorious backdrop, barley Breeder Brigid Meints kicked off the morning talking us through her barley trials. Brigid is passionate about developing organic multi-use naked barley, specifically adapted to the Pacific Northwest region. Using seed from germplasm repositories in the US and from around the world, Brigid is trialling and breeding varieties that will keep up with the demands of organic systems: developing autumn sown varieties that will outcompete the weeds, that will produce sufficient yields within the context of organic fertility, and exhibit resilience to disease.
In these trials, Brigid is exploring the value of naked, or hull-less, barley. Naked barley threshes freely from the hull, and currently makes up only 4% of totally barley production. Naked barley is primarily grown for culinary end use, but barley is a relatively minor food crop in the US compared to other cereals. Perceived as tricky to process and bake with, wheat and oats dominate the cereal market, and breeding efforts in barley have until now focused mostly on hulled varieties suitable for malting or animal feed.
But Brigid is determined to shift that - she is breeding to alter the direction of flow of the finished grain - looking at developing naked barleys that show potential for multiple end uses that will benefit growers, processors and consumers. Barley is a rich source of the soluble fibre beta-glucan, and with hull-less varieties offering the need for less processing, it could be an excellent alternative for wheat in our diets. She wants a barley that performs well in the field, and has the qualities required for an excellent food crop on par with wheat, but one that is also suitable for malting, only being sent for animal feed as a last resort.
Another trait Brigid selects for is resistance to smut – a fungal disease that can have devastating effects on the crop. With fungicide use prevalent in conventional barley farming there has been, seemingly, a chemical solution to smut. Selecting against susceptibility and for genetic resistance to this disease has not been prioritised, making modern cultivars less and less able to fight off this pathogen when grown in low input and organic systems. By accessing germplasm of older varieties and through breeding efforts, Brigid hopes to offer some natural resilience to smut in the future.
When I spoke to Brigid later that day she was excited to show me some of the heterogenous populations she had been working with. She acknowledged that heterogenous material brings resilience, particularly to the varying climate, but she also mentioned the importance of keeping these populations realistic for the end user. Brigid referenced an initial blend of 750 barley cultivars that was made – an epic experiment in diversity! She has since found that keeping populations to 3-4 cultivars allows for enough genetic diversity to provide resilience, but keeps the end product relevant, exhibiting similar enough traits to make it marketable and useable for customers.
These feel like wise words. For crops that make up almost a third of our diet, there’s huge potential for increasing diversity within this category. But we also need to ensure we bring people along with us on this journey. It feels important to breed dynamic grains that are still fit for purpose for current consumers and market needs.
And there might be no better way to persuade people than through their stomachs! Later that day, after a deep dive into inter-seeding methods & cover crops, we got to sample some delicious dishes and baked goods created using the more unusual grains that were being trialled. From triticale fruit scones to barley ramen noodles, this food showcased the potential of these grains in everyday culinary use, whilst also embracing the unique traits these diverse crops can offer. We are creatures of habit, and change can be a challenge. But perhaps through coming together in celebration and in sharing food, we can inspire people to really embrace the benefits that diversity can bring.
